March 27, 2018
by Jenn Rice
Morning buns with coffee or tea is the perfect way to start any day. They’re simultaneously sweet, salty, crisp and chewy, and in a category of their own. But they often get tossed into a group of anything sweet that’s served in the a.m. Contrary to what many will tell you, a morning bun is not a sticky bun. Or a cinnamon roll. Or a muffin. Or just any pastry with cream slathered on top. Do not believe these things. They’re a far cry from the truth.
A morning bun is composed of croissant dough that’s buttery, flaky, and topped with cinnamon, sugar, and sometimes citrus zest, making them a little doughier and chewier than a croissant. It’s as if a croissant, a cinnamon roll, and a muffin had a baby, making it the ultimate pastry. “I love cinnamon and orange together, and the way those simple ingredients combine to make a buttery caramel when baked is irresistible,” says Elisabeth Prueitt, pastry chef and co-founder of Tartine Bakery.
Pastry chefs are also known to add a few extra additions in the end to set their creations apart from others. Regardless, the elusive morning bun is in a class of its own. Here’s what you need to know, plus a few popular spots around the country to seek one out.
It’s a no-frills bun.
It’s a no-frills kind of pastry, and we’re OK with that. “No caramel sauce, no icing—it’s just a delicious dough with hundreds of layers of butter and dough with a thin layer of vanilla sugar and orange zest,” says Ellen King, co-owner and head baker at Hewn. “Sometimes the most delicious things hide in plain sight.”
It’s more satisfying than a cinnamon roll.
“I think people are immediately attracted to the ooey, gooey frosting of some cinnamon rolls and sticky buns which is visually enticing, but the simplicity of a simple morning bun really can’t be beat,” says Ali Cohane, owner of Persephone Bakery. “With a frosted roll, you get that immediate gratification of a rush of sugar, but there is no balance and it quickly becomes cloying—while a morning bun has the best balance of sweet and buttery.”
It’s like two pastries in one.
It’s like experiencing a cinnamon roll and a croissant in one easy bite. “It’s not overly sweet and the balance of the crispy with the gooey interior makes you feel like you’re eating something two different pasties in one,” King says.
Its texture is out of this world.
Love the texture of a croissant? It gets better with a morning bun and you’ll experience several textures within each bite. “[It’s] crispy and flaky on the outside, and chewy and soft as you move inward,” Cohane says. “The evolution of the texture throughout the bun is absolutely what I love about the pastry—and the roll of cinnamon and sugar adds just the perfect bit of sweetness to contrast the buttery roll.”
Eat it however you please.
There’s no right or wrong way, but the pros weigh in on how to devour the beloved pastry. “It starts with deciding to either take a big bite into it, or peel the outside layer and eat it while slowly unrolling it,” says King. “The outside is crispy and flaky, and as you work your way to the middle, it becomes sweet and tender with a delicious gooey dough.”
The center bite is the best part.
Cohane says that the center part is not to miss. “I don’t think I’m unusual when I say I can’t wait for that last center bite with lots of cinnamon chewiness, but it’s not as good without the contrast of the perfectly flaky outside,” she says. “And, as opposed to its iced sibling, it’s not sickening sweet so you don’t feel like you need a nap after eating one.”
Where to devour them right now:
Hewn (Evanston, Illinois)
“Every bakery adds a little different twist to their morning buns,” says King, of her buns, which are rolled in vanilla sugar with flecks of lemon zest. During the holidays, the bakery implements a “Take and Bake Morning Buns” offering, allowing pastry fans to bake the pastries at home and fill their homes with the delicious smell.
Read more at Extra Crispy.
810 Dempster St. Evanston, IL 60202
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Hewn will close early if we sell-out of breads and pastries. Customers can reserve bread and/or pastry items by calling ahead at 847-869-HEWN(4396). We cannot accept reservations left on our answering machine. All reserved bread must be picked up by 12 pm on Saturdays and Sundays.
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Chicago chefs’ menus were featured, along with continued recognition of Hewn’s role as the bread service provider and Special Thanks mention. Related
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